Vinous | Angus Hughson: Barossa 2022: Run, Don’t Walk

Angus Hughson is a digital wine media specialist, drinks communicator and publisher who tells the great Australian wine story through various roles including Australian Editor for Vinous, Co-Publisher of The Australian Ark due in 2023, regular columnist in The Australian, contributing writer to Gourmet Traveller WINE Magazine, founder of Winepilot and the co-publisher of The Vintage Journal. – AH

We’re delighted to share our scores from the latest Vinous reviews by Angus Hughson, and to be one of the five Barossa wineries who scored over 97 points for our latest releases!


Is there such a thing as a perfect vintage? Where the sun shines brightly but not too brightly, and the gods deliver just the right amount of rainfall at the perfect time? Theoretically, yes, it is possible for a particular vineyard or microclimate. But in reality, the perfect vintage is a fallacy when we describe the goings-on for any decent-sized wine region, despite what some winemakers would like you to believe. There will always be areas that are favored and others that will be cursed. This is particularly true in recent vintages, where extreme weather events are becoming more common globally. And this is the story of 2022 Barossa, an outstanding Barossa vintage that was almost perfect and only spoiled by some unsettled weather caused by La Niña that hit some parts of the region. Two thousand twenty-two is an exciting vintage in many ways. It is pulsing with palpable vibrancy, ripe acidity and energy that will surprise many with its combination of raw power, focus and purity of fruit. Two thousand twenty-two is a contrast to the previous Barossa vintages that were of immense ripeness, extracts and flavors.
Read on here – From: Barossa 2022: Run, Don’t Walk (Aug 2024)


EXCLUSIVE RELEASES
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2021 Shiraz Invenienda – 97 points
Drinking Window
2027 – 2042

“The refined 2021 Shiraz Invenienda is a surprise packet, offering bright, pure and highly complex aromas of violets and mixed spices with a savory, earthy underbelly. It is a mid-weight and finely focused modern wine, streamlined and finely tuned with excellent fruit definition and length. Pinpoint balance and genuine tannin weight will also see it age exceptionally well.”


SINGLE VINEYARD SERIES
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2022 Shiraz Secret Block – 96 points
Drinking Window
2032 – 2045

“This currently quite closed 2022 Shiraz Secret Block, a single vineyard from Moppa Hills, is robust with dense and ripe aromas of plum skin and chocolate with a touch of eucalypt and a rich bed of new oak. Quite muscular and firm, tannins ripe and generous followed by a wall of flavor of powerful and tightly formed flavor. Excellent underlying tension over a long, controlled coal fire finish bodes well for the future.”

2022 Shiraz Yacca Block – 95 points
Drinking Window
2030 – 2042

“There’s a beautiful poise to the 2022 Shiraz Yacca Block, which teases with its evocative bouquet garni, green peppercorn and butcher’s shop aromas, with impressive oak in support. The frame and structure are initially tight before purposefully building layered complexity through to a long, refined finish. The 2022 is fine, detailed and built to last.”

2022 Shiraz Holy Grail – 95 points
Drinking Window
2028 – 2040

“The 2022 Shiraz Holy Grail is seamless. Its vibrant, aromatic core of blueberry and plum skin is topped by a brooding mix of tobacco, dried meats and allspice, well supplemented by new oak. A superb balance of firm fruit and tannins follows, with an exotic, musky edge, all tightly bound. A linear and long shape seals the deal.”

2022 Shiraz Coach House Block – 93 points
Drinking Window
2026 – 2034

“The richly endowed 2022 Shiraz Coach House Block is packed with waves of powerful fruit aromas, with cocoa, blackberry and satsuma plum well matched to new oak. Then, it fills the mouth with a dense core of flavor and a base of chewy tannins. The 2022 is quite classic and will certainly reward time in the cellar.”


THE PICTURE SERIES
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2022 Shiraz Gnarly Dudes – 92 points
Drinking Window
2025 – 2035

“The well-pitched 2022 Shiraz Gnarly Dudes shows the class of the season with its blend of ripe and hearty dark cherry, peppery spice and sage lifted by just a hint of charcuterie. I love the savory feel here, with tarry wood smoke complexity and well-matched tannins offering a long, fine finish. Gnarly dudes with a touch of class.”


TWELFTREE WINES
THE ODD COUPLE

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2022 Pinot Noir Odd Couple (Rita Hills) – 94 points
Drinking Window
2028 – 2038

“The full-flavored 2022 Pinot Noir Odd Couple (Santa Rita Hills) opens with bold yet balanced aromas of cherry conserve and dark soil with cassia accents. There’s excellent flavor intensity and focus underpinned by rich tannins with a nice little acidity flick, drawing out exceptional length.”

2022 Pinot Noir Odd Couple (Coal River) – 92 points

Drinking Window
2025 – 2032

“This 2022 Pinot Noir Odd Couple single-vineyard Coal River Valley Pinot Noir has lovely clarity and purity, with refined cherry pit, wild strawberry, red licorice and touches of star anise. It is a fine, ethereal, well-pitched style, with pretty red fruit aromas underpinned by more meaty tones. It also builds more interest with time in the glass as layers of old spice emerge. Well-integrated tannins over a long, finely tuned and silky palate will see it drink well over the medium term.”


“Still, Barossa remains constantly changing and full of surprises. It is a region where traditions run strong but also where there is an undercurrent for change. In some cases, this is responding to the modern international wine market where brute force is less popular than it once was. There is also a new generation questioning the old ways and forging their path, sometimes with greater focus away from Shiraz and more nuanced winemaking techniques…

At the same time, Two Hands, Kalleske and Hentley Farm continue to deliver flashy and impactful wines.

Historically, Barossa has always attracted its fair share of dreamers who want to partake in the regional aura, contributing to a continuous flow of new ideas and visions.” – AH

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